Costume Design Students Stitch Storytelling and Style

“People might not realize how much collaboration goes into it,” said Ting Xiong, who designed the costumes for “Vinegar Tom.” “It’s not just about sketching pretty clothes. We work closely with the director, lighting specialists, set designers and actors to make sure the costume fits our look and feels functional. There’s a lot of research into fabrics and problem-solving behind the scenes that the audience never sees.”

To create the look for “Vinegar Tom,” Xiong spent three months investigating fabrics worn by different classes in the 17th century to understand how clothing can reflect power. She also studied the work of Pieter Bruegel, a Renaissance painter whose images often celebrated peasant culture and exposed inequalities faced by lower classes. The subdued, repressive clothing was juxtaposed with modern punk outfits that represented freedom and power for the characters.

Research happened differently for graduate student designer Anabel Olguin. While the original Henrik Ibsen play “Hedda Gabler” is set in Norway in the 1890s, she worked with Professor Lisa Portes, who directed the play, to construct a style that was ambiguous in time and place. Olguin learned about Victorian clothing worn in the fall in Norway a century ago while also gaining inspiration from “dark academia,” an aesthetic made popular in the 2010s that blends preppy fashion and gothic tones with tailored silhouettes.

Designing works by iconic playwrights like Ibsen can present an exciting challenge because the story has been told many times before. Yet Olguin explains that the design potential is nearly endless. “Even if you’ve done a play several times, there’s always new approaches, new director concepts and a new world to build, even if the text is the same,” she said. “Costume design fulfills the artistic desire I’ve always had. It keeps my mind sharp because I have to be creative in my choices.”

Threading creative vision with production expertise

The Department of Theatre and Dance in the School of Arts and Humanities encourages students to think outside the box and instills the value of collaboration in fueling innovation on the stage. Scholars in design, acting, directing, stage management and playwriting experiment with new technologies and methods while exploring big issues—from gender equality to the impacts of immigration and the detrimental effects of social media.

Nearly a dozen plays are produced each academic year in the department, which has helped shape UC San Diego into an arts destination. Audiences are invited to attend performances written, directed and designed by the next generation of artists, as well as explore the offerings of La Jolla Playhouse, a nationally renowned theater that uniquely partners with the university. These opportunities to explore the arts are part of the Chancellor’s Arts Initiative, known as ArtsConnect. The goal of the program is to bring people together by sparking creativity in ways that enhance empathy, reinforce belonging and promote wellbeing.  

Each production in the Department of Theatre and Dance serves as a laboratory, a place to gain hands-on experience in all aspects of theatre, guided by faculty who are working actively in their field as well as professional staff mentors. For instance, design students such as Xiong and Olguin partner with a team of five in the department’s costume shop. The professional draper, stitchers and craftsperson fabricate the designs of students, which can include multiple plays happening concurrently over a quarter.

“I have basic knowledge of sewing, but I couldn’t do many of the things they do in the shop here,” said Olguin. “They build items from scratch based on the drawings and research images we provide. This can range from constructing corsets and embroidering to producing jewelry and making clothing appear wet.”

Students in the design program are not required to have knowledge of sewing. The program models industry standards, whereby designers partner with costume shops within theatres. They learn how to effectively work as a team, conduct research and design costumes that present a coherent visual narrative. “Each costume tells a story and helps the audience understand who the character is,” explained Xiong. “I really enjoy figuring out how to represent the character’s personality, background and emotional journey through what they wear.”

The opportunity to work with peers who are equally passionate was a significant draw for Olguin when she was searching for graduate programs. “I’m working with individuals who are very likeminded, who are passionate about theatre and art,” she said. “The professors here are working actively in their fields. And because La Jolla Playhouse is utilizing our campus, we have the opportunities to do residencies, which is exciting because the Playhouse is one of the most prestigious theatres in the entire country.”

Learn more about the Department of Theatre and Dance at theatre.ucsd.edu.